Friday, April 30, 2010

Cantina Hopping in Centro Historico

I love cantinas because they take you back in time.  Moreover, in a cantina you can see the real local flair and customs. In a cantina you will see smiles and tears, you will hear songs about love, romance, history and patriotism. In a cantina you will taste the most traditional mexican cuisine and you can taste a rich variaty of tequilas, mezcales, and beer. In many cases the decoration and ambiance remained unchanged from the eighteen and nineteen hundreds or at least this is how it feels. Make no mistake, these are not your posh and polished trendy spots.

Some of the best cantinas in Mexico City are located in the historical center of the city so if you like bar hopping I invite you to hop some of Mexico's oldest and most reknown cantinas. Here comes your drinking itinerary.....

El Tio Pepe
This is one the oldest cantinas around dating back to 1902. At El Tio Pepe the time has stopped and one may even think that it is actually going backwards. This is a rough, run-down bar that is keeping its youthful spirit through its enthusiastic waiters, singing and faithful customers and generous bartenders. El Tio Pepe is also a mandatory spot for the cowboy movies and futbol commercials.

Salon Victoria
This cantina used to be the usual meeting spot for the insurance company workers. It still maintains its engraved glass door, which gives it a nice touch of old classic design. Salon Victoria does not offer your typical cantina appetizers; however, you can try a delicious baby goat, good steaks and a paella.

La Mascota
A little and cozy cantina with good botanas. You need to talk about the church of Regina Coello and the ex convent of San Jeronimo.

La Vaquita
Apparently a famous Mexican comedian, Cantinflas, used to be a waiter here. Here you can find lots of botanas, domino, and TV. Feel at home.

Dos Naciones
This is a great place if you like botanas. From Thursday to Sunday they have 12 different types and the rest of the week there are 8, not bad either. You order three drinks, which is fairly easy and you get your botanas. If you want good service ask for Marcos. He has worked there for 50 years and it shows.

Bar Gante
“La gente elegante se reune en el Gante” and it is true. This is the most elegant of the cantinas on this trip. If you like Spanish food and are an Eurocup fan, this is your place. House specialty is pulpo a la gallega. Mr. Lucio Camacho has been working there for over 28 years.

La Opera
The home of the legendary bullet of Pancho Villa, this cantina dates back to 1870. This is one of the most popular cantinas in centro and it is always packed but don’t worry, you can sit at the bar and enjoy a cold beer or a tequila while waiting for your table. The French style design and cozy atmosphere will make you feel very comfortable. This place also offers a wide range of traditional Mexican cuisine and a wide range of beer, wine and liquor.

Bar del Casino Espanol
Dating back to the 1600’s, originally, this building was a hospital for the Spaniards and at the end of the XIX century the building turned into a Spanish Casino with its famous bar, where conversations were much more open with a variety of drinks and the surrounding various decorative styles ranging from baroque to Arabic to neoclassic and art noveau.

La Puerta del Sol
This place used to be hiding place for a number of famous refugees such as Renato Leduc and it dates back to 1888. It serves your typical cantina type botanas. The house specialty is pulpo en su tinta and to kill the thirst, colibri and mojito.

La Peninsular
This is the oldest cantina in Mexico City. It opened its doors in 1872 and it is also the most traditional of them all. It still has some ancient nostalgia to the days before 1982 when women were not allowed to enter the cantinas. The men should have “permission” from the wife and the mother in law stating the following: “I hereof authorize my husband/partner to have fun whenever and wherever he can, to drink in excess, and play with however many senoritas that come around. Signed: wife and mother in law.” Hahaha, ok now I see why it’s the oldest cantina. Sorry boys, these times are not coming back :)

Salon Tenampa
Last stop. Plaza Garibaldi. The land of the Mariachis and home of Salon Tenampa since 1925. A cavern like with craved wooden booths, this is an obligatory visit and a perfect place for the last tequila. Right in the heart of the mariachiland, this place is always cheerful and singing. It is also a perfect place for larger groups to enjoy the Mexican botanas and sing along to the lyrics of love, politics, and patriotism.

No comments: