Cusco - Machu Picchu Decoded

Although Cusco and Machu Picchu have been on the top of my travel list for a while, I planned this particular journey very spontaneously and bought the plane ticket two days before my journey. It was the perfect moment for me to do it, as I was on the crossway of my life, both professional and personal.

When I arrived to Cusco, I immediately felt the energy of this place. Located on the altitude of 3,300 meters above the sea level this Andean city is filled with energetic ruins and other historic memoirs of the Incas. It also gathers many healers and shamans from the region and abroad. People come here not only to discover the archeological wonders of the ancient civilizations but also to experience their healing powers and listen to the teachings of Pacha Mama or Mother Earth. We still have a lot to learn from our ancestors.

It is really worth staying around Cusco and the Sacred Valle for days and days but for this itinerary I will assume that you only have one week.

Day 1 – Arrive to Cusco

On the arrival day to Cusco it is always advisable to rest and let your body adjust to the high altitude by taking a nap and drinking a lot of liquids. I know because I arrived at 7am, took a little walk around the city followed by a “little nap” and woke up when the nightclubs were opening. So stroll around the city and Plaza de Armas, have a nice lunch or early dinner and rest.

Coca Beer

For lunch, I went to a restaurant called Ciciolina, for some grilled veggies and a tea. For dinner, I had a quinoa soup at Pacha Papa, both restaurants are in the artsy neighborhood of San Blas. I highly recommend both of these restaurants for their ambiance and cuisine.

I do recommend drinking the coca tea. Coca is a healing plant and it only becomes a recreational drug after being processed and mixed with chemical garbage so just go ahead and have your tea. It can only help your headache. You can also have some coca chocolate, cookies, and all other kinds of goodies.

Hotels

San Blas is a good area to stay as it is colonial and charming and it is very close to the city center and Plaza de Armas. Otherwise anywhere around Plaza de Armas would work as well.

There is the all mighty and extra expensive Hotel Monasterio for the spoiled ones with thick wallets. Then there is wide rage of mid range hotels and the mid-lower range hostels.

La Gringa

I stayed at Casa de la Gringa, a lower mid-range hostel run by Lesley Myburgh and her son Simon. The place is located in San Blas with friendly staff, young travellers, and cozy interiors. While there is no heating, you have plenty of thick blankets and super hot showers; also, breakfast is included so it is well worth the $25 per night. If you want a bit more civilization, they also have a hotel Andean Wings where you can enjoy your own Jacuzzi and heating system.

Lesley

The most interesting part of la Gringa are Lesley and Simon. Lesley is well known and respected both in Cusco and internationally for her healing San Pedro ceremonies. Her energy calms you down and heals your heart and she has first hand stories of healing cancer, paralysis, drug addition, and anything else from love and family issues to simply opening your heart to Pacha Mama and the World. Simon, Lesley’s son, a soft hearted twin, is the man who can arrange anything you want, from leaf reading to shamans to horse riding and a trip to Machu Picchu and the Sacred Valley.

You can find them on Facebook or send them an email and arrange your reservations through direct contact (always my best) for Simon at simonmgap@yahoo.com and Lesley at womanthatflies@gmail.com

Restaurants

While Peru is famous for its seafood and ceviche, Cusco is in the heart of the Andes so it’s more suitable for meat lovers. There are however; some vegetarian and seafood options you can explore. Here are my favorites:

MAP Café – placed inside Museo de Arte Precolombiano (“MAP”), this café has modern architectural design and serves top-notch creative dishes. It’s right next to Hotel Monestario on Plazoleta Nazarenas in San Blas.

Chicha por Gaston Acurio – Gaston is one of the most famous Peruvian chefs with renown restaurants such as La Mar and Astrid y Gaston. This one serves an upscale range of traditional Peruvian dishes and the restaurant is named after a national drink called Chicha. Located on Plaza Regocijo.

Limo – good ceviche and seafood. Located right on Plaza de Armas.

Ciciolina – cozy and cute restaurant in San Blas, meat dishes and good salads.

Pacha Papa – another meat place, super cute and romantic with an outside sitting in the garden. It’s right on Plaza San Blas.

Greens Organic – organic restaurant with some good vegetarian options, San Blas.

Prana – a raw food bar and restaurant. Close to Plaza de Armas.

Days 2 - 3 – Cuzco

Now you are ready to do some real exploring. You can’t miss the following:

View of Cusco from Saqsaywaman

Saqsaywaman: You can get there by taxi and it’s 10 soles (don’t pay 15 as they will offer). These ruins are quite energetic and you can walk up to the Christ and feel like you are Rio ;) There is also a path that leads to a cross overlooking the whole city of Cuzco. It’s a lovely walk and the view is amazing.

Coca Museum in San Blas: interesting history of coca and convincing arguments for it’s healing characteristics. That is coca not cocaine, big difference.  

Ayahuasca Vision

Museum of healing and medicinal plants: one block from Plaza de Armas on Santa Teresa street is a little museum where you can learn about the wide uses an healing powers of Tabaco, Coca, San Pedro (or Wachuma), Ayahuasca, and many other plants that grow in the Amazon and the Andies. 

Chocolate Museum: one block away from the Plants Museum is the chocolate factory where you can make your own chocolate from scratch, I mean from the bean.

Templo de la Luna (the Temple of the Moon): you can either hike it or take a horse back tour to the ruins and mountains above Cuzco. Beautiful sites and if you happen to catch a full moon, you can do to the temple at midnight and walk into the cave. The moonlight will shine right through the whole in the ceiling illumination the space. Pretty amazing. I was lucky to be there on the night of May 5th, 2012, the Supermoon night and the entrance into the Age of Acquarius. How is that for good timing? 

Mercado San Pedro: central market where you can find all types of artesan works, fruit, food, and even mescaline.


And of course I can imagine that some you younger ones would like to go out. This was not part of my trip but I did check out a few places just out of curiosity.

Bars/Clubs

The Fallen Angel

The Fallen Angel: this one is a must see even if you don’t want to party. It is a gay bar and the crowd is completely mixed so don’t feel shy. The amazing feature is the deco; interesting and totally worth exploring. It’s in San Blas in front of Hotel Monesterio.

Mama Africa and the Mushroom Bar: Two in one, a chilled bar/lounge with some comfy cushions to chillax and an upstairs nightclub to dance your night away. Surprisingly enough these place don’t close till sunrise, literary. It’s on Plaza de Armas.

Memphis: a bar/club right on Plaza de Armas. Good for a few drinks and a dance.

Day 4 - Pisaq

Pisaq

Go there in the morning as you only need one day, spend the night there. You can go either by taxi, which is 70 soles (about US$35) or by a van for a mere 3.4 soles (US$2). It’s a 30-45 min ride either way.

Pisaq is a small town in the middle of the Andes on the way towards Ollyantaytambo and Machu Picchu. It’s best to go there on a Sunday as there is the Sunday market where all the artesans from the surrounding areas gather to sell their goods.

In Pisaq, try the local traditional oven empanadas and have a lunch at Ulrich Café right off of the main square. Other options are ruins and hiking so just ask at your hotel.

Hotels

Melissa Wasi: a lovely B&B right next to the mountains. You can even do an Ayahuasca ceremony there and sleep over at the Temple while you are at it. If you want to book a ceremony, talk to Diego and check out their website so you can get a better feel for the plant and what you can expect. The music is lovely, perfect for meditation.

Luz y Paz: right next to Melissa, half the price.

Day 5 – Ollyantaytambo

Again, leave in the morning. I recommend to do this one by taxi for another 70 soles as with the bus you would need to go to Urubamba and there change for another bus to Ollyantaytambo (unless you want to visit Urubamba on the way).

Inka streets in Ollayantaytambo

Things to see and do:

• The Temple of Ollyantaytambo: you can’t miss it even if you are blind 

• A walk through the narrow Inca streets of the town 

• A walk to the ancient Inca bridge 

• Horseback ride in the mountains: make sure to book this ride with ­­­­­­­­­Perol Chico, otherwise you may end up with a horse that either doesn’t move or can fall apart right between your legs

Hotels


El Albergue - a romantic little hotel in a rustic style that is located right at the train station.


Las Orchideas - slightly lower budget hostel, clean, with WiFi, and hot showers. Well located right between the station and the main square.


Restaurants

El Albergue - this is a lovely restaurant located right at the train station. I believe it was created by a french tourist who settled in Ollyantaytambo many years ago.

There are not that many choices in the tiny Ollantaytambo but any of the ones listed here are pretty good. 

Day 6 - Aguas Calientes

Aguas Calientes

Aguas Calientes is a town right at the base of Machu Picchu. You can take the morning train and arrive at lunch time. Walk around a little and relax overlooking the mountains and the river.  The name Aguas Calients comes from the hot springs that are in the area; however, I do not recommend them particularly. There are a few dirty looking pools that are not very well kept in my humble opining but its up to you.

Hotels

The upscale option for the spoiled ones with thick wallets is the beautiful Sanctuary Lodge right on top of Machu Picchu but that is really expensive so you can also stay at the upper scale Inkaterra in Aguas Calientes.

Otherwise you have a wide range of little hotels and hostels for about $40 per night that are perfectly comfortable. I stayed in Hostal Machu Picchu, clean and friendly with hot showers. It is also close to the train and bus station, which is a plus here as you need to wake up before the birds for tomorrow’s trip to Machu Picchu.

Restaurants

Inkaterra – upscale overlooking the rail and the river

Cuy

The Tree House at hotel Rupa Wassi – upscale and cozy with fusion food

Toto’s House – mid-range restaurant offering all types of local dishes with a lovely view of the river

Once you are here you should really try to have Cuy, the guinnea pig regional flavor, although damn it they are super cute. Not an easy task. I do feel the fuzziness factor here.

Go to sleep early. Tomorrow you are up at 4am.

Day 7 - Machu Picchu

Important Tips:

• Buy your tickets in advance and make sure to buy Machu Picchu and Huayna Picchu. You don’t want to miss it. It’s probably the best part of it all. I didn’t know and had to end up bribing the security guide to enter Huayna Picchu as you can’t buy the ticket once you are already up there. Not proud of it but was I gonna miss it? Hell no! 

• Enter Huayna Picchu at 10am.

• Get your return train ticket to Peron for 4pm (with Peru Rail). If you go back to Oyllantaytambo then you have to change again in Urubamba and it will take forever. Peron is just 15 min away from Cusco.

Getting there

Sunrise from Puerta del Sol

All rested? Let’s see. You have two ways to get there: (i) walking up; or (ii) the bus. In both cases you should be up at around 4-4:30am.

People start walking up at around 4:30am and it can take you anywhere from 30-60min depending on your physical condition. It is a steep hike so be prepared to sweat.

If you are taking the bus, you want to catch the first one going up to see the sunrise from the top of Machu Picchu, it is worth it, trust me. How many times in your life will you be up there? The first bus leaves at 5:30am but you have to be at the station one hour before to catch it. The line gets long, very long.

Crowdless Machu Picchu strategy

The gates of Machu Picchu open at 6am. Be there on time!

As soon as you enter through the main go to the left to “Puerta del Sol” (Sun Gate). Don’t stop at the ruins yet, you will have plenty of time for that later and it’s already crowded.

Enjoy the walk (apx. 30 min) and watch the sun sprinkling its warmth onto the Inka world as the day unfolds. You can feel the goose bumps covering your whole body.

From Puerta del Sol go back towards the ruins and walk over to the Inka Bridge. You would be surprised that you are probably still one of the few who got there. At least that was in my case.

Now you can go to see the ruins. Enjoy, relax, listen to the stories, feel the energy, and make a wish.

Enter Huayna Picchu with the 10am crowd. Go all the way up and Wooooow, you are officially on top of the Inka world. Now if you are a sporty and brave one, on the way back head to “La Gran Caverna”.  Congratulations! You just got yourself another two hours of half jungle half mountain hike…steep one too.

By the time you return to Machu Picchu you will have about good 8 hours of hiking behind you J Wanna walk down or take the bus?

Important! Get a massage! It’s the best US$20 spent after you have done all of the above. Plus, US$20 for one-hour massage? It’s a no-brainer.

That’s it, if you have a few extra days, you can always be brave and do some ceremonies. Who knows, you may learn something about yourself and the World that may just change your life J

Enjoy the Journey!!!!