Contramar

It amazes me that I write so much about so many new places as I discover them and yet there is no mention of my usual spots. Perhaps I'm just too used to them and have so much to say that I don't know where to begin. My story of Contramar is just that. I think I have had a few lives in this place and I just can't quite decide which story to tell. By the way, they are all good.

Contramar, right by glorieta Cibeles in colonia Roma, opened its doors in 1998 and it is an institution in Mexico City. It has a sister restaurant in Polanco called Entremar but if you ask me there is no comparison in terms of the ambiance between the two. Contramar is the undisputed winner. This is the perfect example of the Mexican lunch, not in terms of the food but definitely in terms of the time spent at the table and the amount of alcohol consumed at one sitting. I sometimes wonder if it is still a restaurant or a bar. Or an upscale cantina? Whatever it is, it is definitely worth a visit.

On any given Thursday or Friday you better make a reservation if you don't want to face a two hour waiting line and as I said people don't just eat and go. When you approach the restaurant you can easily recognize it by the happy, dressed to impress faces smoking and waiting outside the restaurant. The decor is very simple with blue walls, open kitchen, and fish logos around the walls. Quite appropriate for a seafood restaurant. Also, from any table in the restaurant you have a perfect view of the overall scene, which is exactly what people are looking for when they go there or at least this is the strong impression one gets. And the people that go there? Well...let me just say that you can actually make some new friends there after bumping in each other every week. Yes, this is a perfectly loyal clientele. I'm surprised that people are still hooking up in there as I would think they eventually run of options but apparently it's a large big happy family with endless supply.

The food in Contramar, in spite of the club appearance, is very decent. At the beginning my complaint was that the menu does not change; however, slowly the chefs have been experimenting with the specials and managed to keep the quality to the original hit menu. The must haves are: jaiba suave, tostadas de atun, tacos del pescado al pastor, and tostadas de erizo. For desert, pie de higos and tarta de merengue will melt in your mouth and of course as one should stay for a while you order an espresso with liquor 43 to accompany your dessert. Now you are ready for "sobremesa", which is the poison of your choice

That said, if you like to try the place in a calmer fashion, it becomes a total family lunch spot on Sundays so bring your kids and enjoy these delis in any fashion you wish.

I have to say though that the best about Contramar are the waiters. It is amazing but they actually know half of the guests by name and I strongly believe a big reason why you walk out with a feeling of strong wind is because these guys are master vendors. Literally, before you lift your finger a new drink is waiting in front of you. And guess what it leads to? .....Yes, a big, fat, long, and very scary bill. Oh well, by this time you don't care anyway.

Location:  Durango 200, esq. glorieta Cibeles
                Col. Roma
Hours: Mon - Sun 13:00 - 18:30 (for food service)